2024 proved transformative for Favre Leuba. After lying dormant for years, the historic brand roared back to life with fresh leadership, new energy, and a clear vision. With industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann at the helm — previously Vice President at Watchbox Switzerland and CEO of Ulysse Nardin — the brand has strategically positioned itself around three distinct collections: Chief, Sea Sky, and Deep Blue.

“The Chief collection is the cornerstone of Favre Leuba’s renaissance,” said Hoffmann in a statement. “Where the first Chief captivated with its cambered cushion case that gently softens at the four corners, the Chief Tourbillon opens a new chapter with the most intricate complication in our history.”

Image: Revolution ©

Amid this revival, Favre Leuba has maintained accessibility across most of its lineup, with 22 models priced between CHF 2,200 and CHF 4,400. For the debut of their first tourbillon since its founding in 1737, the watch naturally sits at a premium as the brand’s new flagship at CHF 24,800.

For this new model, the brand worked together with Jean-François Mojon, founder of Chronode. Mojon’s fingerprints can be found on exceptional timepieces from MB&F, Czapek, and Hermès, among others. “Throughout the region that is known as the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, Favre Leuba has long been one of the most storied and respected names and it has a fantastic history of own movements,” Mojon notes. “The opportunity to contribute to this new chapter in the brand’s history is truly an honor and a privilege.”

Introducing the Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon

Perhaps the most striking feature of the Chief Tourbillon is its three-dimensional dial, which Hoffmann considers crucial to the watch’s identity. The embossed dial shows off a three-dimensional structure comprising raised circular sunray-brushed triangles standing 0.15mm high, contrasted by matte triangles recessed to the same depth, all anchored by a foundational layer at the center. 

This surface is brought to life using specially designed tools, requiring multiple precision stamping stages to achieve its distinctive layered complexity. Image: Revolution ©

The tourbillon bridge features a horizontally brushed finish on its top surface, running parallel to the 3 o’clock – 9 o’clock axis, while its outer edge (which carries the seconds track) displays a circular-grain finish. Image: Revolution ©

Mojon’s work comes in on the engineering front, in the form of the FL T01 movement (based on Chronode’s C502), a caliber completely reworked by Mojon’s team specifically for Favre Leuba.

The tourbillon cage measures a generous 14.85mm in diameter and provides an expansive view of the movement’s mechanics. The upper bridge of the cage cleverly evokes an hourglass shape, echoing the brand’s emblem while simultaneously supporting the small seconds rehaut and its flame-blued hand.

Image: Revolution ©

The blue screws pay tribute to Favre Leuba’s long-standing watchmaking traditions, reaching back to 1737. Image: Revolution ©

The hourglass theme continues on the caseback, with a spiral-relief hourglass set against a laser-engraved background, creating a refined satin-like texture. 

The Chief Tourbillon with its distinctive Hourglass Dial will be produced in a strictly limited edition of just 25 pieces.

Tech Specs: Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon

Movement: Manual-winding FL T01 (based on Chronode C502); 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; 60-second tourbillon
Case: 41mm × 11.45mm; stainless steel; 100m water resistance
Dial: Black stamped dial with raised circular sunray brushed triangles, recessed matte triangles, and a foundational layer
Strap: Interchangeable integrated brushed and polished steel bracelet with double-link construction and folding clasp; additional black rubber strap with pin buckle
Availability: Limited to 25 units
Price: CHF 24,800